Three weeks in Greece

 

Actually, it is not enough, but is still a very good start. Before visiting the islands, start with some days in Athens, then spend a week in Hydra, Spetses and the Western Peloponisos, and finish with a long week in the Cyclades.

 

As the poet says, one has to travel slow in Greece. This is the only way to see a lot: to admire the landscape, to smell the oregano, to appreciate the evening light, to listen the waves breaking on the rocks, to feel the warm sand in your fingers and the salt on your skin.

 

A short stay in Athens

 

Athens offers a good start. You may not be impressed by its buildings or the respect of the traffic rules, still the city has a strong and unique personality. Five things which you should not miss:

 

• Acropolis and the Parthenon. A world must.

• The walk on the pedestrian street starting at Amalias Avenue and going around Acropolis. Better do it when the sun goes down. The Parthenon then becomes gold.

• Eat souvlaki, kebab and gyros, the national fast-food. Thanassis, Bairaktaris, Savas, on or next to Monastiraki square are touristic but still OK.

• Watch a movie at an open air cinema. Cine Thiseion, by Acropolis was voted by CNN as the best movie theatre in the world. http://travel.cnn.com/explorations/escape/worlds-10-coolest-movie-theaters-355218

• Swim at Vouliagmeni beach, one of the nicest beaches in a city. Not as spectacular as Copacabana, but with much more friendly waters. Three options, a free part, especially to the south, a large and more popular beach and the expensive and exclusive "Astir Beach" with young hip crowd http://www.astir-beach.com/   (check the nice web-site)

• The Acropolis Museum, a modern building of Bernard Tschumi with an impressive collection. You can do it after a morning visit to Acropolis, but you can also reserve another day for it.

• Go for a night drink at café Throubi, at Plateia Agias Erinis. Greeks sleep late.

• Start a walk at National Library (Bibliothiki), then University (Panepistimio), then Academia, then Eyes Hospital (Ofthalmiatreio)... towards the Parliament. Watch the change of the guard, then walk down Syntagma Square and the pedestrian, commercial Hermou street (Hermès shop is not there, but they both took their name from the God Hermes).

   

• Start another walk at the Olympic Stadium, a marble elegance rebuilt on the old stadium for the first Olympic games of 1896. From there you walk the Herodes Attikus str. pass the Presidential Palace and head towards Kolonaki, the chic area of Athens with nice boutiques, restaurants and cafés.

• More musea?

  • Archeological Museum, the richest in Greek antiquities (the area is not nice, the building is neo-classical, the collection is great)

  • Cycladic Museum in Kolonaki. More than 3.000 years B.C. Greeks were making sculptures resembling to modern art http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycladic_art

  • Byzantine Museum, in Kolonaki, with religious art of the Orthodox church

  • Benaki Museum (Ethnological, more specialised) also in Kolonaki

• Walk in the 19th century Athens, starting in Plaka, stop for a coffee at Jasemi (jasmine) or Aerides (the monument of the winds), heading towards the meat market and ending at the hip Gazi, the area around Kerameikos Metro Station.

• The hippest area nowadays is the Agias Eirinis Sq., between the central Syntagma Sq. and Athinas Str. with nice cafés and trendy Athenians.

• If you are lucky, you will find tickets for a show at Athens Festival at Odeion Herodus Atticus under Acropolis http://www.greekfestival.gr/en/venue18-wdeio-irwdoy-attikoy.htm

• The more adventurous traveller will also visit Omoneia, the central square (unsafe), Exarcheia, an area with youngsters, artists, anarchists and graffiti and from there will hike up the Lycabetus hill with its pine trees and a unique view of the metropole.

• If you like strong tastes try a late night belly-soup (patsas) in the meat market. Open 24/24.

• For an idyllic dinner, Ithaki at Vouliagmeni, http://www.ithakirestaurantbar.gr/

• Dinner with view to Acropolis? Couzina or Strofi.

• Good fish and nice atmosphere at Mikrolimano at Pireaus: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189403-d695916-Reviews-Jimmy_the_Fish-Piraeus_Piraeus_Region_Attica.html

 

 

OK, there are more than five in my list, but this is Athens.

 

One important tip:

Forget your western European timetable: go to the city early in the morning till 14.00 and after 18.00. In the remaining hours have a light lunch,  go to the beach ( I prefer Vouliagmeni), to a swimming pool or to your room for a siesta. Or a combination of the above.

 

An original idea is to ask a young, enthusiastic Greek to guide you through Athens: http://www.athensinsiders.com/

 

 

Where to stay in Athens?

 

For a luxury stay go at Grande Bretagne.

Hilton offers good location, modern comfort, great views and a large swimming pool.

Intercontinental offers about the same in a less good location.

New Hotel has an excellent position, nice design but no pool. Friends recommended it. Cheaper option than all previous.

Fresh Hotel is a design hotel in a rather dark area. Roof garden with swimming pool. http://www.freshhotel.gr/

 

For a summer stay in Vouliagmeni sea side, Astir Palace Westin can satisfy everyone. Many different options in the same peninsula. Expensive (very).

http://www.astir-palace.com/

 

A cheaper option in Vouliagmeni is Grecotel Suites: http://vouliagmeni.grecotel.com/en/. Four stars, but not on the beach and about 20 km from the city center.

 

TAXI in Athens: Giorgos is our "family driver", speaks a very good English, has other international clients: 00306944100410 (you can also SMS him)

 

A week south-west of Athens

 

This is an ideal area for sailing as it offers smooth winds, variety of landscapes and plenty of shelters.

 

The small islands of Aegina, Poros are very beautiful, but especially Hydra and Spetses are hidden gems, available only to artists and mega-rich. The Dutch royal family bought recently their summer residence at Kranidi, just opposite to Spetses. Monemvasia is another great option further south in Peloponisos.

 

If you want to do some archeological or cultural visits, then Mycenes, Epidaurus and Nafplio are interesting places, but the two first are not on the sea side. You can arrange taxis from any port. Taxi is cheap, provided you agree on the price beforehand for long distance or go with the meter for short distance.

 

 

A week in Peloponisos

 

In the first morning you head from Athens to Olympia (count 3 hours drive), where you will admire not only the birthplace of Olympic games, but also one of the  finest sculprures ever made, Hermes of Praxitelis.

 

Overnight in one small charming hotel proposed by your compatriot Jacoline

http://www.smallhotelsingreece.com/

Alternatively, you end your day in Limeni or Vathia in Southern Peloponisos.

The next day you visit Monemvasia and if you still have time Mystras.

 

The third or fourth day you find a hotel in the Nafplio area. Nafplio is the first capital of modern Greece and you find there the charm of a miniature capital in a spectacular landscape. Do not miss to climb up to the castle. Fantastic views.

 

Close to Nafplio you will visit Mycenes and Epidaurus.

You will also try to attend a night show (mainly classical theatre) at the Epidauros Amphitheatre, a jewel of aesthetics and acoustics. You have to start booking in May/June at Athens/Epidaurus Festival

http://www.greekfestival.gr/en/

 

If you still have time you will visit the area of Porto Heli, Costa, Ermioni, where the Dutch Royal family and many other VIPs have properties.

 

Alternatively, you will visit the picturesque Poros island, which is only 100 meters away from the shore.

 

Return to Athens or head to Delphi and Meteora further North.

 

 

 

 

 

The Greek islands

 

There are many, impossible to see them all in one go or even in one life. I do not know anyone who has visited them all. How to choose? Here are some ideas:

 

Opt for one group of islands and limit yourself to 3, maximum 4.

 

If you want green islands go to Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos) or to Corfu, Paxoi, Lefkas, Ithaka...) The last ones are not inter-connected, one has to travel through the mainland.

 

Cosmopolitan islands are Myconos, Santorini, Spetses, Hydra. There you find the crowd of St. Tropez or of Ibiza in a really beautiful setting.

 

Touristic islands with direct flights are Paros, Corfy, Rhodos, Kos, Samos, Zakynthos. To avoid, unless you have good plans.

 

Less visited islands can be found in the whole Greece, there is a proposal here-below.

 

Cyclades, is a group of approximately 30 islands in the middle of the Aegean Sea. These can be grouped into:

• The Eastern Cyclades (Myconos, Santorini, Paros, Naxos...) which thanks to international airports became world destinations

• The Western Cyclades, such as Serifos, Sifnos, Milos, Folegandros, accessible only by boat from Pireaus (and helicopter) with fewer tourism and lower development. Everything is in small scale, beauty is abundant.

My proposal: Sifnos and Milos and then expand according to your taste, time and budget.

 

BOAT TO CYCLADES

The boat leaves from Pireaus. Check the
http://www.openseas.gr/openseas/SearchTrips.html;jsessionid=7C8C29D5CBA06CB39180DD27D08E5DD3
or order your tickets by phone to Freeway Travel, to our friend Georgia: +316974604117 or +31 210 6898371-2
 

 

My small guide to Sifnos

 

Sifnos does not have the nicest beaches, nor has the spectacular cliffs of Santorini. Nevertheless, many say it is the most charming of all. There are three villages with beach, Kamares, where the boat arrives, Platys Gialos, where we spent 20 summers and Vathi, smaller than the other two. We advise Platys Gialos, especially for its variety of options in lodging, restaurants and beach life.
 

In a normal day you spend the day close to a beach, go for dinner in a restaurant somewhere else and finish the evening at the central village of Apollonia, where our house is.

 

Where to stay?

If you choose to stay at the beach we advise

http://www.platys-gialos.gr/en.html A building from 60s, at the best spot on the beach, recently renovated. Our prime minister used to stay there for 30 years. Friends with young children stayed last year and found it great. Our top pick.

 

http://www.niriedeshotel.gr/  Small swimming pool but the beach is 50m away.
Alternatively, at the same beach of Platis Gialos http://suites.verina.gr/  Limited sea view, because it is behind the street. Stylish.

 

For more than 10 years we stayed at Moschoula, 00306945207877, in a two bedrooms appartment and a nice veranda, 20 meters from the sand. Good location, no style.

Our Spanish friends have a beautiful hotel http://www.kamaroti.com/
With a car you are 5 min away from Apollonia and 5 min from the nearest sea (rocks). 20 min from beaches. Expensive

 

Verina and Verina Astra are places with refined taste and serene atmosphere. Periodically, they organise yoga weeks.
 

There are plenty of cheaper alternatives, but with less or no style. All addresses at http://sifnos.e-sifnos.com/

Plenty of nice hikes in the old paths of Sifnos. Check for example my contribution
http://www.tripadvisor.com.gr/ShowUserReviews-g189434-d2665107-r128197105-Agios_Andreas_Acropolis_Museum-Sifnos_Cyclades.html#REVIEWS

 

Where to swimm?

My top preference are the rocks of Chrysopigi. When there is northern wind you go to the south, whene it is souther you go to the northern part. You will then have a feeling of being in the biggest natural swimming pool.

 

A good alternative: Epta Martyres, the picturesque church/peninsula off Kastro. This is the place of the picture in the background. The deep blue.

 

If you like sand, go to 

- Apokofto, the beach besides Chrysopigi, in particular to the northern part

- In Platis Gialos I swim in front of Palmyra or at the other end, close to Platys Gialos hotel

- In Kamares, nothing compares to Isalos at Agia Marina with its cool atmosphere.

- in Vathi pass beyond Elies Resort, where the beach is large and the waters crystal clear

 

For a snack close to the beach

 

Omega3 in Platys Gialos. Excellent fish creations. Expensive.

Isalos in Kamares

Lebesis in Apokofto

 

Dinner?

 

Kafeneio Drakakis in Apollonia

Cayenne, with more "dared" plates

Rabagas, the best table in the best setting of the island. Relatively expensive.

Limanaki in Faros for fresh fish

Argyris in Agia Marina/Kamares serves high quality dishes, both fish and meat.

Kelari in Kato Petali has the best lamb chops

Leonidas in Kastro, also for lamp chops

 

Bars

Botzi, my preferred

Rabagas, a cool lounge, even for morning coffee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MILOS
 

With a bit of luck and better promotion Milos could be a second Santorini. A volcanic island with the most dramatic landscape, spectacular rock formations and almost 100 beaches, mostly accessible only by boat:

Sarakiniko, to the south west with its white clifs.  

Kleftiko and Papafraggas in the North,

Metaleia (the mines) in the middle of the Eastern coast
 

Better stay at Polonia, a place with beautiful scenery, a nice beach in the village, several small beaches in front of hotels. Better choose a small hotel at the west of the village. Great sunset.

Nefeli studios, at the cap with panoramic views and very beautiful sunset.
Apollon studios, with private beach (rather like a swimming pool, some rooms on the beach front, some others behind. Small swimming pool at the back rooms. We stayed there, really relaxing.
Melian studios, a bit more sophisticated than the others
http://www.tripadvisor.com.gr/Hotel_Review-g1105860-d1119624-Reviews-Melian_Boutique_Hotel_Spa-Pollonia_Milos_Cyclades.html

In an afternoon visit Klima, a village with only one row of houses.
For dinner go at least once to the central village of Plaka. Enjoy the sunset. Then, there is a well-known tavern in the middle of the village (I do not remember the name).
 

FOLEGANDROS
Hotel Anemomilos on the clif: http://www.anemomilosapartments.com/

SANTORINI
There are three places to stay, facing the spectacular caldera: Thira, Imerovigli, Oia.
We prefer Oia, but the last time we stayed at the excellent Heliotopos, at Imerovigli, in the middle of the caldera.

In any case, when the sun goes down at caldera of Santorini, everybody agrees: this is the definition of beauty of this world.

 

 

Paros Antiparos Despotiko Sifnos Poliaigos

 

With a boat you can discover some of the nicest marine landscapes of the Aegean sea and combine this with visits of beautiful villages, some gastronomy and stylish nightlife.

Let’s say you start in Paros. I like Naousa with its beautiful little fishermen’s harbour. Opposite to Naousa there is Kolimpithres, a nice rock formation with calm waters.

Leave Naousa and navigate to the West, cross the channel between Paros and Antiparos towards south and then navigate to the west towards Despotiko. At the southern shore of Despotiko you will find a small bay with a beach, excellent for a lonely night anchoring. Romance guaranteed.

To the west of Despotiko you will start seeing Sifnos. One of the nicest villages in Sifnos and the whole Aegean is Kastro, on top of a rock. 4.000 years of history in a village which is still inhabited. There is no harbour but you can anchor to the small bay to the south and walk to Kastro.

Navigate to the south and have a swim at the bay of Chrysopigi (a beautiful white chapel on a peninsula)

There are two bays with basic marinas in Sifnos:

• Platys Gialos to the South, where you will certainly find place. The nicest restaurant in the island (and probably in the whole Cyclades) is called Omega-3 and is a reason enough to anchor to Platis Gialos. I wrote a review on it:

http://www.tripadvisor.fr/ShowUserReviews-g681258-d4842624-r202784207-Omega_3_Omega3-Platis_Yialos_Sifnos_Cyclades.html#REVIEWS

Creative fish cuisine, better to be tasted at the end of an afternoon accompanied by ouzo, or better, tsipouro.

Giorgos (the cook) or Vasilis (the owner) know us well and can arrange a taxi for you to go and spend the evening in the village of Apollonia. Then in Apollonia:

• Dinner at Cayenne or Kafenio

• Drinks to Botzi or Argo.

Another evening (if you have in Platis Gialos) you can go to Nero kai Alati (Water and Salt)

• Kamares, to the West, the main harbour. There I would dine at Argyris for Greek cuisine (both fish and meat) or at Isalos for a creative version of Greek cuisine.

One of the nicest and least known islands is Poliegos (or Poliaigos), at the SW of Sifnos. You can start with the Faros bay (under the lighthouse), continue south to Metaleia (the mines) and the whole south shore with stunning rocks and the nicest blue on earth. You can finish at the sandy beach at the west for a colourful sunset.

To the west of Poliaigos there is Kimolos. A nice tavern on the beach.

Milos is the most spectacular (see above).

 

Enjoy